International apparel manufacturing and sourcing. If we don't make it, we can find it.

Archive for June, 2010

Constructive Confrontation

Jill Coyle

Jill Coyle

In my article, Confronting Conflict, I talked about some of the things I’d learned about dealing with conflict in the workplace, specifically in my role as a business owner and manager.

A comment from reader Alison Friedman got me thinking about what confrontation looks like when it is done well. She noted that my tips were all about what NOT to do. So, here are a few tips on WHAT to do when confronting – and HOW to do it.

Some things TO DO

1)      Take the bull by the horns

  • Say what needs to be said
  • Try to do it quickly (but not if you’re angry)
  • Do it in a caring way – i.e. This is for your good and the company’s good
  • Try to make it constructive – i.e., Here are some things you can work on, Here’s how to deal with this next time.

2)      Make people talk to each other

If there are squabbles between two colleagues, first try to get them to work it out together. I’ve found this extremely difficult in Chinese culture (talking about it means admitting a problem). If you must, sit with the two people and try to help them talk AND listen to each other.

3)      Do it every time

The last thing you want is for an employee to be making mistakes; meanwhile you’re watching and internally grumbling about it – but saying nothing. If you’re grumbling – you need to say something NOW. Because otherwise, it’ll all build up – and one day it’s going to explode (destructive rather than constructive).

How to confront in a constructive manner:

1)      TSF (Timely Specific Feedback)

A couple years ago, some friends were sharing about a concept they used within their organization – a concept called TSF. Timely – in that you tell people within a timely (or short) period. Specific – meaning, don’t say “Great job out there.” But say, “Hey, I liked it when you asked that question, because people really engaged and discussed it.”

  • TSF is for both positive AND negative feedback. And THE GREAT THING about giving positive TSF is that when the time comes for negative TSF, the person is much more likely to listen to you because there has been a build-up of trust and caring.

2)      Ask questions

You can ask questions about the situation or problem, the person’s current emotional status (things at home can affect things at work), happiness with his/her position, health, etc,

  • Sometimes gaining a better understanding of the situation or the background will help with the confronting process.

How do you give constructive feedback?
What do you think of the concept of TSF?
What have been responses when you’ve had to confront – did certain things make it better or worse?

Understanding the Chinese Yuan Revaluation and its Impact on Import/Export Business

Tanya Crossman

Tanya Crossman

There has been a lot of discussion both online and offline regarding revaluation of the Chinese Yuan. Commentators have dissected the statements made and the implications to China, the US, and international business in general. There are scores of articles all over the web with a wide range of opinions on the topic.

We’ve listed here a few of the articles we’ve found most helpful for understanding what has actually happened and how it will affect Chinese exports.

Renaud’s post is a great place to start. It’s easy to follow without reading anything else about the situation and gives a simple breakdown of the likely effects for importers.

We liked this post on Chinese Negotiation, cutting through the mess of online opinions to give a little more clarity. Stan at China Hearsay wrote a lengthier and more personal take on the situation that is also worth a read.

China Real Time Report (of the Wall Street Journal) put together a series of articles looking at the revaluation through its potential impact on various industries. Their article regarding the impact on General Manufacturing was most applicable to us, but there are also articles that focus on PropertyBanksTechnologyEnergyConsumer Goods and AutosTransportation and Tourism and Commodities and Metals.

Finally, if you want to get right down to what was actually said, they also published a translation of the statement given by the People’s Bank of China on Sunday.

If you’ve come across other good articles on the Chinese Yuan revaluation, please share them with us in the comments section below.

A Beginners Guide to Manufacturing Knitwear in China – Peak Season: Part 1

Danny Coyle

Danny Coyle

Steven Weng

Steven Weng

Most knitwear is manufactured from April to August in time for the Fall/Winter seasons in the northern hemisphere. (Late production continues through to October). The push to get large volumes produced in this short period puts pressure on every aspect of production. It can be difficult to get knitwear orders completed in a timely fashion if orders are not placed before May of each year.

Many of these principles hold true for manufacturing other products as well.

I’ve listed some of the potential areas for delays here and in Part 2 of this article.

1. Sampling

Most sampling should be done in advance of the busy period, however, the Pre-Production (PP) samples must be done immediately before production. Usually the PP samples that are given to the customer are not done on the same looms (or even in the same factory) as the actual production. These sampling looms are often operated by technicians who are superior to those that operate the production looms.  This means that they can push the samples out faster, but the quality is not indicative of the quality on the actual production line.  Furthermore, these looms used for sampling are also making samples for other orders at the same time, so you may have to wait for those samples to be done first, before they make your samples. Normally the samples will take 7-10 days to do. Delays here can add 2-3 days to the sampling stage of the project.

2. Yarn Dyeing

When dyeing lab-dips and dyeing the production yarn, there will be delays. Most delays at this stage are due to queuing up behind all the orders that were placed before yours.  The dyeing factory may promise you a delivery date for your lab-dips, but this delivery date is never fixed. Most factories will tell you that dyeing will be complete 30-45 days after the color is approved.  Remember that a top dye yarn will always take longer. Upon receiving your lab-dips, the factory may give you a timetable for the yarn dyeing, but this is not a reliable timeline, especially during the busy season.

To be frank, the whole dyeing process during the busy season is a crap-shoot. You never know how many people are ahead of you in the queue, and you never know how good your guanxi is compared to the guys in front or behind you.  So delays are inevitable. In extreme circumstances the delays can push production back 2-4 weeks.

3. Knitting

Again, during the busy season, your knitting factory may have other orders in production at the same time as your order. Production on your order will not begin until the orders ahead of yours are complete. Delays at this stage can go from a few days to a few weeks. If you allow 45-60 days for this stage of production your order should stay on time. Our production period is normally 30-45 days after the PP sample is approved.

During the busy season production is going as fast as possible on every order the factory is working on.  They are trying to make as much money as possible by processing as many pieces as possible. Factories have no spare time on the looms, and workers are working 10-12 hour shifts at their looms. Once they start knitting your order, you must make sure that the factory is concentrating on your order.  Sometimes they will only use half the looms to process your order.  This will also cause delays because the factory originally calculated the delivery time based on full production capacity.  It is important that you physically travel to the factory to make sure they are working on your order.  If they are not, you will face delays.

In the next installment of this piece, we will look at other factors that can delay your knitwear order and some ways to keep your order on schedule. Click here for Part 2.

Textile Product Inspections and Testing

Tanya Crossman

Tanya Crossman

Renaud posted a good checklist of tests for textile products. When you are arranging QC for your products it’s important to know what exactly will be tested!

Of course, some products are more complex than others. For our simplest products, the following checklist is enough for our internal QC:

  • fabric has no defects
  • custom dye color matches previous orders/agreed upon swatches
  • measurements are within tolerances
  • seams are sewn straight

For more complicated items (such as intricate sweaters with accessories), the list is far longer!

The important thing is to have an exact list of what makes a product acceptable – any item falling outside the specific limits is therefore demonstratively defective.

What is on your QC list?
How do you get suppliers/customers to agree upon the standards to be enforced?

A Lesson for Managers: Confronting Conflict

Jill Coyle

Jill Coyle

One difficult thing that I’ve faced as a business owner is dealing with conflict—especially in dealing with conflict within our team.

During our start-up phase 6 years ago, hiring staff that had superior industry knowledge was a daunting task in of itself; it was quite intimidating to be “new” at the business, yet also be the boss. Some of these employees had worked in their field since I was in middle school.

So when conflicts starting flaring up, I absolutely did not want to “have a talk” with them about their personality failings or lack of teamwork.

Not very confrontational in nature, I decided to hope the problems would go away (which of course they didn’t). And the cycles began of things escalating, me doing a dance around the issues (never confronting), then things calming down. And then the cycle would start again.

Another tactic I tried (rather than confrontation) was playing “peacemaker” between them – rather than making them deal with the problems themselves.

These two tactics – avoidance and peacemaker – didn’t work.

Long story short, here are a couple things I am (still) learning:

1)    Especially as the boss, I need to communicate clearly with an employee who is having a bad attitude or not being a teamplayer. Why? To continue to give clear definition and boundaries to that employee’s job description – and to let him/her know what is or isn’t acceptable behavior

2)    Not confronting affects everyone. People get confused if we say that teamwork is important, but then don’t confront the attitudes or behaviors that say teamwork isn’t important

3)    People don’t thrive in confusion. When people are confused about their job description or the expectations on them – there isn’t clarity to get the job done and there isn’t much personal growth.

4)    People need to deal with their own issues – and they need to deal with their inter-relational conflicts themselves. A little help or coaching from the boss is fine – but in the end, it is up to them to learn from their shortcomings and failures…or to move on.

A final word

Confrontation is just another kind of feedback. Make sure you are also giving positive feedback – otherwise, there will be little trust and acceptance during confrontation.

What are some lessons you’ve learned through conflict?
Have you found yourself intimidated by your employees (or colleagues)?
If so, how did you deal with conflict in those situations?

Company Culture – it begins with Compliance

Danny Coyle

Danny Coyle

This post on A Sales Guy blog got me thinking about company culture. The post talks about the difference between Culture and Compliance – that employees doing what you say out of fear does not equal a company culture, but rather, compliance to your way of doing things. To my way of thinking, however Compliance and Culture are not mutually exclusive terms.

Sometimes, employees or group members don’t understand the culture and need to be forced to comply. After some time, they “see the light” and understand why company culture is the way it is. At that point they gladly embrace the culture.

All of my employees are in China. Obviously, there are differences in the way business is generally done in China as opposed to in the US. We choose not to conform to the business culture prevalent here but to hold our company to a higher standard. One example is our company’s strict “no lying” policy – something our staff don’t always find natural or easy to accept.

Most of them comply with this mandate at first – it is not something they have bought into but rather a rule that they follow. Once they see the long term benefits, however, it becomes a cause they champion as well. While they are expected to comply at first, they gradually accept it and apply it on their own.

In this way we instill our company values in our employees. It’s not just about hiring staff who hold all the values of our company culture (although finding employees with matching values is important). Rather, it is about educating our staff – explaining the WHY behind the way we do things. As they come to understand the motives that fuel our company culture, our staff become more invested in the company and in its success.

A basic element of leadership is influencing those around you for positive change. We hope to have a positive influence on each member of our staff as we demand compliance to our company culture and discuss its importance with them.

How does your company encourage the development of a positive company culture?
How does compliance figure into the culture at your company?

Overabundance of Choice leads to Buyer Confusion

Jill Coyle

Jill Coyle

We read a lot of general business blogs as well as China-specific blogs. The concepts of good business apply everywhere in the world.

I recently read a great article on MarketingProfs talking about the importance of giving consumers an appropriate number of product choices – too much choice results in confusion and lower sales.

Although we are B2B sellers, and I’ve found the principles in this article true in the China Export arena. When we’ve given customers too many choices – whether in new clothing styles, colors, materials – they will often take longer in making a decision…or not make a decision at all.

Read the full article here

Have you ever seen a sale stall due to an overabundance of choice?
How do  you combat this problem?

Children’s Day at Imports Oriental

In China, June 1st is celebrated in as a Children’s Day holiday (as it is in many Asian countries). Children have time off school, and all sorts of activities for kids happen.

This year, Imports Oriental took our staff to local foster homes Luke’s House and House of Joy to celebrate Children’s Day with the kids there. Some of our staff brought their own children along, and it was great to see the kids playing together. We shared ballgames, sidewalk chalk, craft, watermelon, playground time, presents, and a fun lunch including BBQ, french fries and ice cream cake!

Imports Oriental with Luke's House and House of Joy on Children's Day

Imports Oriental with Luke's House and House of Joy on Children's Day

Luke’s House and House of Joy are a part of Abba’s Children, run by Mike & Elisa Haller. Mike and Elisa have been taking care of foster children in Lang Fang since the summer of 1999. Since 2007, they have been running a boys-only home, focusing especially on older boys who have no chance of being adopted, who wouldn’t be helped any other way. They help these older boys get an education and will help them through school and find a profession as they get older.

Currently these foster houses are home to 16 boys of varying ages with varying degrees of special needs. Mike Haller also drives his car “out west” to bring supplies to other locally-run foster homes.

For information about donations or volunteering, contact mikenelisa (a) gmail (dot) com

Imports Oriental staff playing with the Luke's House and House of Joy kids.

Imports Oriental staff playing with the Luke's House and House of Joy kids.

Sidewalk chalk provided lots of fun for both kids and adults.

Sidewalk chalk provided lots of fun for both kids and adults.

More fun with sidewalk chalk.

More fun with sidewalk chalk.

Children open presents given to them by Imports Oriental.

Children open presents given to them by Imports Oriental.

Lots of food and fun at lunchtime!

Lots of food and fun at lunchtime!

See more Abba’s Children Pictures here

BOPS – the Balance Of Power Shift

Jill Coyle

Jill Coyle

Read a great article on Chinese Negotiation Blog recently about the power struggle between supplier and customer. They use the term “BOPS” (Balance Of Power Shift) which I love! It succinctly defines what I’ve usually just called the cold shoulder.

I’ve always found it rather confusing when suddenly a supplier just didn’t want to do a sample for us (a supplier we’ve used for 6 years), or when a supplier just took his sweet old time when we were telling him, “This could be a moneymaker if you finished it THIS YEAR!”

Read the full BOPS article here

Everything is about relationship here in China. One thing that helps is to just continue to build those customer-supplier relationships – go see your supplier when possible, try to do negotiations face-to-face, go out to lunch, etc. It’s much harder for a supplier to write you off when you’re right there in front of him.

Building long term relationships with our suppliers in a high priority for Imports Oriental. To read more about how we’ve improved product through working with our suppliers in person, check out these  two articles

A Tale of Three Factories

Tanya Crossman

Tanya Crossman

It’s quite common in China for purveyors of similar items to group together geographically. As a result, some rural cities become known as “the place” to manufacture certain items. For example, Baigou, in northern Hebei Province, manufactures bags and all the accessories associated with them. Keqiao, in southern Jiangsu Province, is the place for fabric.

I once visited three Wujiang factories in one day – each a very different experience.  On this trip I was visiting factories that produced heat-transfer papers – printed papers that, when applied to plain cloth in a certain way, transfer their design to the fabric.

Factory #1
The factory warehouse was dirty and disorganized, the small office had a broken window and a distinct cigarette smell, and next door, rolls of printed paper were piled haphazardly. The factory area was dingy and dirty (piles of dust an inch deep could be found in back corners). The owner seemed only vaguely interested in our business, and hurried us away to lunch – a lavish meal he put on for the visiting foreigner. He brought his own flask-sized bottle of whisky and toasted everything until the bottle was finished. Upon our return to the factory, he disappeared – then we were actually able to get some work done.

Factory #2
This company was more high-tech. They sold electronic print designs to factories and apparel designers. Computers around the room were linked to the special printer which produced heat-transfer paper, and there were constantly new print jobs going on. A small press made take-home swatches. The offices appeared to be for factory owners, police, and other VIPs to smoke and chat while waiting for the work to be finished next door. We only saw the boss once when he wandered through to survey his domain and point out the foreigner to his guests.

Factory #3
This company’s warehouse was packed with rolls of heat-transfers paper. A press transferred the prints to rolls of cloth which were then delivered to customers. We arrived late in the evening and the press was still running loudly, pouring out steam. A truck arrived and staff began loading it with rolls of newly pressed fabric. Despite all the activity, the boss was generous with his time. When we asked for small sample swatches, he gave us large swatches. He was courteous and accommodating, despite the fact he was clearly busy with an outgoing shipment.

This day was eye-opening for me. Although the first factory was the dirtiest they received the majority of our business. Their product matched our need best; everything else we could work around. No matter how gracious the third factory’s host is, we will not buy from him unless his offerings benefit our customers. Without a product that meets your customer’s need all the customer service in the world won’t create sales.

What about you?
Have you visited a “product city” like this? Share your own factory tale with us.