Tanya Crossman

In two recent posts we gave a brief introduction to the use of organic fabrics. Now let’s muddy the waters! Certifcation of organic fibers means the cotton/wool/etc that came from the farmer was organic – no chemical pesticides, livestock raised according to organic standards, etc.

However, we all know that there is a lot of processing between raw wool or cotton bols and the fabrics clothing is made from. It is possible to take organic fibers and then process them with chemicals before clothing is produced.

Here’s a quote from O Ecotextiles which helps explain this better:

The market is absolutely rife with claims about organic cotton – and believe me, I have absolutely nothing against organic cotton.  But the focus (by marketers and consumers alike) is that if it’s made of organic cotton, then the product is sustainable.  That’s far from the truth.  We like to use the analogy of  “organic applesauce” – that is, if you take organic apples, then cook them with preservatives, emulsifiers, Red Dye #2, stabilizers and any number of other additives – do you end up with organic applesauce?  Just like bread – which is made from wheat which is grown (maybe organically), harvested, ground into flour, mixed with milk, yeast, salt and maybe other things, then baked – fabric undergoes the same type of transformation.

So the certifications which are often found on fabrics may only pertain to the FIBER, and not to the processing.  What they mean is the fabric started out with organic fibers – but the processing, like the organic applesauce mentioned above, results in fabric that contains a high proportion, by weight, of synthetic chemicals (such as lead or mercury, formaldehyde, chlorine, or phthalates).

(see the full post here)

The world of organic fabrics is complicated, to say the least! If this is something you are looking to pursue, have a look at the links posted on the O Ecotextiles site – it’s a good place to start your research.

Danny Coyle

Listening is an important skill, whether at home or at work. The best leaders – and the best friends – are able to listen well to those around them, including those they have power over.

I’ve been experimenting recently with listening.  I am not strong in caring about people, listening to their problems, and engaging them on a deep level, especially if we do not have a strong friendship to begin with.

I am only starting to realize that I have a very hard heart, and I really don’t care that much about people. That needs to change.  My listening skills are a reflection of that.  I often want to turn the conversation so I can talk about my ideas, my achievements and my skills.  And that is not loving to anyone (It’s really a form of hatred).

In an attempt to love more deeply, I’ve been trying to train myself to listen more deeply.  To shut off my mouth, and listen to people with my heart. Clear my brain of all the tangents that it goes on when people talk, and just focus on what they are saying.

I was talking to a wife of a friend, and she was talking back about a struggle she was having.  I wasn’t really deeply listening.  I could sense that she was taking the conversation deeper, but since I wasn’t listening deeply, she wasn’t going to engage the conversation deeply.  It was like she just stuck her toe in the water, found it was quite cold, and recoiled.

I realized that she had recoiled because I wasn’t listening to her heart. And I decided to try to listen better in the next few moments. Just as I was making that decision in my mind, her husband walked up and entered the discussion.  As I looked at them talking, I tried to focus on the words they were saying, and just let them talk.  I tried to ask questions that clarified the situation for me, and questions that tried to pull out the true meaning of what they were saying.

I was amazed at the depth of the conversation now taking place.  The only factor I could point to that was different was my attitude in listening to them.

It is amazing the difference that listening can make.

I’ve been practicing it with my wife as well, and our conversations have gone deeper than they have ever gone before.  I can’t believe how loving, powerful and simple true listening can be.

Here are some tips that I’ve found that really help to listen carefully.

1. Don’t let your brain run away on a tangent when someone else is talking.
2. Look at the other person in the eye as if you are really listening to them. Because you are listening to them.  Eye contact is key.
3. Engage your heart.  Let yourself care about what they are saying.
4. Do not try to fit your ideas into their words.  Ask clarifying questions if needed, but don’t assume they are saying something they are not.
5. Be patient and let them do the talking.  They will finish when they are finished.  The point is not about getting your own ideas in, but about letting the other person feel loved.

Price

The biggest downside of organic fabrics is price. It costs more to produce organic fibers than to produce inorganic fibers. Certification is required, which costs money. Producing organic fibers is more time intensive, which raises labor costs. To produce organic wool, the livestock must be raised according to organic standards, meaning more land is needed per animal.

The question for clothing retailers is whether or not their target consumers are willing to pay for organic fabrics. If your target demographic is environmentally conscious and has enough disposable income to spend extra on a preferred product, organic may be the right choice for you.

Certification

If you are charging a higher price for organic textiles, you are responsible to confirm that your product is, in fact, organic.

There are strict national and international codes of practice in place for farmers who apply for organic certification. Farmers who sell organic fibers must adhere to exacting standards that stipulate that the soil as well as animals used for the growth of organic fibers must not be exposed to toxic herbicides, fertilizers, fungicides or insecticides. In the case of wool, in order for it to be certified organic, it needs to be created in accordance with strict standards for the management of organic livestock

It’s a simple sales principle – you need to back up your claims. To claim you have organic products, the fibers you are purchasing must be certified by an internationally recognised certification board. A highly respected standard for organic textiles is the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard).

If you choose to go the organic route with your textile products, be prepared to put the time, energy and money into acquiring a trustworthy certified product and proving your claims to consumers. You may want to consider hiring a trusted agency to help do the legwork for you.

Organic fabrics are becoming more readily available and interest in/demand for them is growing, particularly in western countries. If “eco-friendly” describes your target consumers, consider moving into organics – it may give you a leg-up.

At Imports Oriental we have been looking into organic fabrics for several years now. Organic fabrics are textiles that use organically cultivated fibers. These are fibers that have not been exposed to harmful pesticides, chemical fertilizers, and other agricultural procedures and substances which can negatively impact the environment.

Here’s a quick look at a few common organic fibers.

Wool

For most people, wool is the first organic fiber that springs to mind. Wool is hypoallergenic and extremely resistant not only to bacteria, but also to mildew and mold, which are common allergy triggers. Wool is a natural fire retardant; firefighters wear wool for this reason. Unlike synthetic fibers, wool will not ignite when exposed to open flame. For wool to be certified organic, the animals producing it must be raised in accordance with standards for the management of organic livestock.

Organic Cotton

The most common organic fiber used by textile manufacturers is cotton. Organic cotton fiber production creates a small carbon footprint; not only is it biodegradable, the wastage residue during the manufacturing process is less than ten percent.

Organic cotton retains the characteristics of regular cotton – such as wash-and-wear properties, durability, and moisture absorption – and also resists dust mites. Hypoallergenic properties make it relatively safe for people with sensitive allergic conditions such as asthma, skin allergies or dust allergies.

Organic Bamboo

Yes, you can make fabric out of bamboo. The bamboo is pulped and used to make fabric. It produces more fabric per acre than traditional fibers. Bamboo textiles are also biodegradable.

Bamboo textiles have many advantages over cotton. Bamboo takes less water to dye than other textiles, and no chemicals are needed to aid the dyeing process. Bamboo textiles are soft to the touch and inherently antibacterial. The fabric absorbs moisture well, but dries twice as fast as cotton. Organic bamboo textiles are not bleached with chlorine.

Organic Hemp

Hemp fabric is not widely used in the apparel industry due to the association with marijuana, but it is a legitimate alternative fabric. Hemp fabric offers greater UV protection than many other textiles, and can be recycled when it has outlived its usefulness.

Danny Coyle

Over the last few months, I’ve started to realize that people just don’t see how much they can impact the lives of people around them.

One of my great passions is opening people’s eyes to see their true potential.  I love seeing the lights come on when you show them a horizon that is within their grasp, and then watching them reach out and take it.

A few weeks ago, I gathered our organizations leaders for a meeting.  Our organization puts on events.  I split them up into groups of 3, and told them to discuss two questions.

Question 1:  How does my role empower the people who attend our events?

Question 2:  How does my role empower the people who serve on my team?

We defined empowering as the ‘You can do it’ attitude.  The attitude that helps people see that they can accomplish something bigger than themselves.

As we were discussing these questions, I could see that people in the meeting were starting to see their role in new ways. They were starting to see that they don’t just do a job, but that their job has an impact in the future trajectory of those that attend our events.   It was so much fun to watch.

A few of the team members walked into the meeting thinking ‘I just do a job’ and over the course of 2 hour changed to ‘I empower people through my job.’

One of the dangerous assumptions that I made is that everyone on the team is already empowering their team and the attenders. It’s dangerous because they could easily check out of the discussion by saying ‘I don’t empower anyone.’  Thankfully, no one said that, and everyone engaged the question. Also, I had a clear idea of what our organization is supposed to do at a deep level, so I can ask engaging questions that drive us to that purpose.

We will be monitoring and reinforcing these concepts over the next few weeks/months, but I am really excited about where this is going.

Here’s a few questions you can ask yourself about the people on your team:

1. What can you ask your staff to consider that would show them that you see them much larger than they see themselves?
2. Ask your staff how they are furthering the misison of the organization, but in a non-threatening way, that clarifies what success looks like?
3. What does ‘turning the lights on’ mean for your organization?  How do your staff see themselves right now, and how do you want them to see themselves in the future?

As a result, our blog will be taking a backseat for the time being. There will be posts every month or so, not twice a week as in the past. Thank you so much for reading and engaging with the Imports Oriental blog over the past year!

Those who do business in China know it mostly as a time of loud fireworks, red decorations, and an interruption to work. Manufacturers shut down for the holiday, and in country areas sometimes for longer (the Chinese celebrate several special days outside the official 7 day holiday).

I thought it would be fun to take a brief look at just a few of the many Chinese new year traditions that are so important to the people of this nation – traditions many of us are not overly familiar with.

Xiao Nian – a week before the new year
Xiaonian or “pre-New Year” is traditionally the time to make sacrifices to the Kitchen God – so that he will report favorably about a family’s conduct throughout the year past. Effigies and offerings are burned (it’s common to see people lighting piles of cardboard and paper items on the sidewalk around town). It also marks the beginning of a period of spring cleaning. Couplets are pasted on doorframes; houses are swept and tidied. The house will not be swept on New Year’s day so that the new good luck is not swept away.

Chu Xi – New Year’s Eve

Fireworks in Beijing

Chu xi is the new year’s eve dinner – a time for family to gather in reunion. Fireworks are set off all night but particularly at midnight. Fish is a common dish to eat, due to the phrase 年年有餘 (nián nián yǒu yú) meaning to have plenty every year, in which the last character is a homophone with fish (魚). In the north (such as Langfang/Beijing, where we live) it is customary to make jiaozi (dumplings) together after dinner, to be eaten around midnight. Many families watch (or at least have on in the background) the 4 hour New Year Gala screened on CCTV every year since 1982.

Chu Yi – New Year’s Day
On New Year’s Day it is traditional to visit the oldest members of one’s family (parents, grandparents, even great-grandparents). Children greeting their elders are often given hongbao (red envelopes containing cash gifts). It is normal to bring gifts whenever you visit someone in their home – fruits (especially mandarins but never pears), nuts, and sweets are common. Temple fairs are open and are visited throughout the new year week. Fireworks continue to be set off.

Front gate of the Ditan Park Temple Fair

Chu Er – the second day
The second day of the new year is traditionally the time for married daughters to visit their birth family (new year’s eve/day being spent with their married family).

Chu San – the third day
This is traditionally a “bad luck” day for visiting with friends and family. Perhaps this is a welcome break after several days of festivities!

Po Wu – the fifth day
In the north it is common to eat jiaozi in the morning. This is another big day for fireworks. I’m told this is because the 5th of the new year is celebrated as the birthday of the traditional god of wealth, but for most people it seems to be just the thing to do!

Ren Ri – the seventh day
Renri means “every man’s birthday” and is the day where the entire population grows a year older (this leads to differences in the calculation of age between cultures). It is also the last day of the official public holiday.

The eighth day
Back to work! This is the first work day of the new year. Many people also celebrate a family dinner on this night.

Yuan Xiao Jie – Lantern Festival
This happens on the 15th day of the new year and is the official end of Chinese new year celebrations.  It is traditional to eat tangyuan - glutinous rice balls with sweet fillings cooked in a light soup. In fact, many restaurants will serve tangyuan after the meal to all customers on this day. Candles and lanterns are lit outside homes and just about anywhere. It’s common to see paper lanterns lit with candles take off into the night sky. This is also the last major day for fireworks.

Red lanterns strung up in Ditan Park

Happy New Year!

May the Year of the Rabbit be a healthy and prosperous one for you, both personally and professionally.

Tanya Crossman

Last week Renaud wrote a piece about working with Chinese suppliers I enjoyed.

He starts out by saying that when you first start working with Chinese suppliers, you may notice a need to change certain habits.

It is very important to define the product requirements in the smallest details, including the labeling and the packaging.

I’m with him here! It’s important not to make assumptions. Don’t rely upon the supplier’s “common sense”. The problem with this isn’t that your supplier is “stupid” but rather that he doesn’t know what you’re thinking. You have a clear idea in your head of what a label should look like, whether you realize it or not. It may be that you think it “obvious” what a label should look like. If you do not communicate these specifics clearly, don’t complain when the supplier goes with his own assumptions of what makes for a good label!

Labeling and packaging are aspects of production we have changed our system on over time. Originally, all product was shipped to our warehouse where we did our own quality control and per-piece inspection, before labelling and packaging every piece by hand, ensuring no mistakes. At the time, this was something our supplier could not handle to a standard which was acceptable to us. Over time, as we have trained our supplier and improved other aspects of production, we have moved more of the labeling and packaging tasks to the production factory. When punctuality, quality, quantity, and color tolerances were all happening well, we added these extra jobs.

Quality and timing are never guaranteed. Expect a very bad experience, and you might be pleasantly surprised.

If by “expect a bad situation” he means “plan for the worst” then I am in total agreement! Things go wrong. It happens. It happens when you’ve made the same product at the same factory with no problems before. It happens when you have time to recover and when you don’t. Having a contingency plan ahead of time saves time and stress when those unforeseen problems crop up. Some questions to think about:

• What will I do if the product is not ready on time?
• When do I need it, as opposed to when I want it?
• How will I respond if product quality is unacceptable?
• How do I prioritize different production values (punctuality, cost, quality…)?
• What scenario would force me to cancel the order?

Monitor production closely and micro-manage the whole process.

Yes, yes, yes! Keep in regular contact with your supplier – make sure you know the specifics of what’s happening with production. This kind of micro-managing helps not because your supplier is not going to look out for you (although that can be the case on occasion) but rather that your supplier may well have a different set of values to you. He may value punctuality over quality, or price over time – whereas your values may be opposite. This shows out when things go wrong (which they inevitably do, eventually, even to the most reliable of suppliers). When a choice has to be made -such as “I can either get them done on time OR at the price/quality promised” – the supplier will do what seems best to HIM, which may not be your own preference.

If you know what’s going on at every step of production, you have a chance to step in and make those calls yourself, rather than finding out weeks later what the supplier decided to do. We have several times averted what could have been problematic issues simply by asking specific questions and letting our preferences/values be known. When production was inevitably delayed, we knew early enough to accomodate the delay, rather than promising a delivery date to our own buyers we would later find out we could not keep.

Don’t take everything they tell you for granted. Once production is under way, in 50% of cases you are not told the truth.

I don’t entirely agree here. Although there certainly are unscrupulous suppliers out there who will lie and cheat and do whatever they can to make a fast buck, these “deceptions” aren’t always so malicious in intent. Sometimes it is simply a case of different priorities, leadership styles, or manners of dealing with conflict. While it is good to assume you don’t have the whole story, let it be a healthy awareness rather than an overly suspicious nature.

Don’t promise anything beyond the next order. It is useless. Your counter-party thinks short-term and in a distributive manner (“there is a pie to share, and I want the bigger half”).

Again, I’m not in total agreement here. I absolutely believe you should never promise a future order you can’t guarantee you’ll be placing with your current supplier, longterm relationships are very beneficial. Saying you are going to place an order later won’t gain you any extra leverage with your current problems, but a history of placing regular orders will. Chinese suppliers look more at your past history than at future possibilities. While this means you have no benefit when starting out, it does mean there is benefit in sticking with an imperfect but proficient supplier rather than constantly looking for a better supplier every time. Over time, a supplier will learn your values, know what details you get upset over, and future orders (and problems) will be worked through more smoothly. (This is especially true when you work with smaller factories).

I remember working with a buyer who had set up a very strong (nearly bullet-proof) system for avoiding getting burned. . .He had a theory that once a relationship has turned sour–for whatever reason–he’d better cut his costs and stop everything right away with the supplier in question. I saw first-hand how brutally he acted against a poor supplier who had committed an involuntary mistake. . .That supplier got about 100,000 USD worth of product cancelled, and the importer lost a relatively good supplier. The bottom line is to try to understand the real situation. It is not easy, but it is far better than assuming the worse and resorting to knee-jerk reactions.

Here’s the important part – if you persevere through small/unintentional mistakes, problems that come from ignorance or bad planning rather than from malicious intent, you can train your supplier over time, improving their quality while building a relationship. Giving up at the first small sign of trouble means you’ll never realize the benefits of a long-term supplier relationship.

Do you have any long-term relationships with suppliers you cherish?
How have your supplier relationships changed over time?

Tanya Crossman

The following story comes from an old post on China Law Blog. I re-read the post recently and wanted to share the story – it’s a China classic.

There’s a story I often tell clients regarding China pricing. Co-blogger, Steve Dickinson, is a long time friend of a very successful Chinese factory owner in Shandong Province. Steve visited his friend at his factory one day and his friend complained about how his fans were so noisy and were always breaking down. Steve commented on their incredibly poor quality and the owner noted that they cost about USD$10. A few months later, Steve returned to the factory with a gift: a $250 top of the line American fan. A few more months later, the factory owner told Steve that the fan had increased worker productivity because they could now hear their music. And every few months for years, this factory owner brags to Steve about how well the fan is working and how long it has lasted. It is not an exaggeration to say this one fan taught this factory owner the benefit of not buying strictly on cost.

Reading the description of workers enjoying their music while working reminds me of a visit I made to one of our suppliers’ factories. He showed us around a newly renovated sewing room, where 20+ seamstresses worked on different parts of children’s pajamas for export to South Korea. A radio played the ladies’ favorite station, entertaining them as they worked. Then I spotted a sole young man in the sewing room. He sat at his machine, in a room full of women – listening to his own music through headphones. I wonder how many weeks he spent listening to music he couldn’t stand before coming up with that solution!

Back to the subject, though; the post talks about how foreign companies cannot compete with local operations on cost alone – very true. In fact, one of the reasons that IP theft is such a problem is that once a local factory has learned how to make your product, they can offer it directly for a much lower price. To compete, you must offer something that is of greater value than a cost saving.