International apparel manufacturing and sourcing. If we don't make it, we can find it.

Posts Tagged ‘china exports’

Working well with Chinese suppliers

Tanya Crossman

Tanya Crossman

Last week Renaud wrote a piece about working with Chinese suppliers I enjoyed.

He starts out by saying that when you first start working with Chinese suppliers, you may notice a need to change certain habits.

It is very important to define the product requirements in the smallest details, including the labeling and the packaging.

I’m with him here! It’s important not to make assumptions. Don’t rely upon the supplier’s “common sense”. The problem with this isn’t that your supplier is “stupid” but rather that he doesn’t know what you’re thinking. You have a clear idea in your head of what a label should look like, whether you realize it or not. It may be that you think it “obvious” what a label should look like. If you do not communicate these specifics clearly, don’t complain when the supplier goes with his own assumptions of what makes for a good label!

Labeling and packaging are aspects of production we have changed our system on over time. Originally, all product was shipped to our warehouse where we did our own quality control and per-piece inspection, before labelling and packaging every piece by hand, ensuring no mistakes. At the time, this was something our supplier could not handle to a standard which was acceptable to us. Over time, as we have trained our supplier and improved other aspects of production, we have moved more of the labeling and packaging tasks to the production factory. When punctuality, quality, quantity, and color tolerances were all happening well, we added these extra jobs.

Quality and timing are never guaranteed. Expect a very bad experience, and you might be pleasantly surprised.

If by “expect a bad situation” he means “plan for the worst” then I am in total agreement! Things go wrong. It happens. It happens when you’ve made the same product at the same factory with no problems before. It happens when you have time to recover and when you don’t. Having a contingency plan ahead of time saves time and stress when those unforeseen problems crop up. Some questions to think about:

  • What will I do if the product is not ready on time?
  • When do I need it, as opposed to when I want it?
  • How will I respond if product quality is unacceptable?
  • How do I prioritize different production values (punctuality, cost, quality…)?
  • What scenario would force me to cancel the order?

Monitor production closely and micro-manage the whole process.

Yes, yes, yes! Keep in regular contact with your supplier – make sure you know the specifics of what’s happening with production. This kind of micro-managing helps not because your supplier is not going to look out for you (although that can be the case on occasion) but rather that your supplier may well have a different set of values to you. He may value punctuality over quality, or price over time – whereas your values may be opposite. This shows out when things go wrong (which they inevitably do, eventually, even to the most reliable of suppliers). When a choice has to be made -such as “I can either get them done on time OR at the price/quality promised” – the supplier will do what seems best to HIM, which may not be your own preference.

If you know what’s going on at every step of production, you have a chance to step in and make those calls yourself, rather than finding out weeks later what the supplier decided to do. We have several times averted what could have been problematic issues simply by asking specific questions and letting our preferences/values be known. When production was inevitably delayed, we knew early enough to accomodate the delay, rather than promising a delivery date to our own buyers we would later find out we could not keep.

Don’t take everything they tell you for granted. Once production is under way, in 50% of cases you are not told the truth.

I don’t entirely agree here. Although there certainly are unscrupulous suppliers out there who will lie and cheat and do whatever they can to make a fast buck, these “deceptions” aren’t always so malicious in intent. Sometimes it is simply a case of different priorities, leadership styles, or manners of dealing with conflict. While it is good to assume you don’t have the whole story, let it be a healthy awareness rather than an overly suspicious nature.

Don’t promise anything beyond the next order. It is useless. Your counter-party thinks short-term and in a distributive manner (“there is a pie to share, and I want the bigger half”).

Again, I’m not in total agreement here. I absolutely believe you should never promise a future order you can’t guarantee you’ll be placing with your current supplier, longterm relationships are very beneficial. Saying you are going to place an order later won’t gain you any extra leverage with your current problems, but a history of placing regular orders will. Chinese suppliers look more at your past history than at future possibilities. While this means you have no benefit when starting out, it does mean there is benefit in sticking with an imperfect but proficient supplier rather than constantly looking for a better supplier every time. Over time, a supplier will learn your values, know what details you get upset over, and future orders (and problems) will be worked through more smoothly. (This is especially true when you work with smaller factories).

I remember working with a buyer who had set up a very strong (nearly bullet-proof) system for avoiding getting burned. . .He had a theory that once a relationship has turned sour–for whatever reason–he’d better cut his costs and stop everything right away with the supplier in question. I saw first-hand how brutally he acted against a poor supplier who had committed an involuntary mistake. . .That supplier got about 100,000 USD worth of product cancelled, and the importer lost a relatively good supplier. The bottom line is to try to understand the real situation. It is not easy, but it is far better than assuming the worse and resorting to knee-jerk reactions.

Here’s the important part – if you persevere through small/unintentional mistakes, problems that come from ignorance or bad planning rather than from malicious intent, you can train your supplier over time, improving their quality while building a relationship. Giving up at the first small sign of trouble means you’ll never realize the benefits of a long-term supplier relationship.

Do you have any long-term relationships with suppliers you cherish?
How have your supplier relationships changed over time?

Don’t try to compete on cost alone – add value!

Tanya Crossman

Tanya Crossman

The following story comes from an old post on China Law Blog. I re-read the post recently and wanted to share the story – it’s a China classic.

There’s a story I often tell clients regarding China pricing. Co-blogger, Steve Dickinson, is a long time friend of a very successful Chinese factory owner in Shandong Province. Steve visited his friend at his factory one day and his friend complained about how his fans were so noisy and were always breaking down. Steve commented on their incredibly poor quality and the owner noted that they cost about USD$10. A few months later, Steve returned to the factory with a gift: a $250 top of the line American fan. A few more months later, the factory owner told Steve that the fan had increased worker productivity because they could now hear their music. And every few months for years, this factory owner brags to Steve about how well the fan is working and how long it has lasted. It is not an exaggeration to say this one fan taught this factory owner the benefit of not buying strictly on cost.

Reading the description of workers enjoying their music while working reminds me of a visit I made to one of our suppliers’ factories. He showed us around a newly renovated sewing room, where 20+ seamstresses worked on different parts of children’s pajamas for export to South Korea. A radio played the ladies’ favorite station, entertaining them as they worked. Then I spotted a sole young man in the sewing room. He sat at his machine, in a room full of women – listening to his own music through headphones. I wonder how many weeks he spent listening to music he couldn’t stand before coming up with that solution!

Back to the subject, though; the post talks about how foreign companies cannot compete with local operations on cost alone – very true. In fact, one of the reasons that IP theft is such a problem is that once a local factory has learned how to make your product, they can offer it directly for a much lower price. To compete, you must offer something that is of greater value than a cost saving.

Leverage – having a China presence changes the game

Tanya Crossman

Tanya Crossman

Today we’re looking at a recent post on Silk Road International. David talks about leverage, and how even a careful buyer can get into trouble when they don’t have enough of it.

David uses two cases studies to illustrate this. In one case, good preparation did not make up for a lack of in-person inspection, and a whole shipment of bad product resulted.

They had done almost everything correct.  But they didn’t have on-sight QC and when their product showed up incorrect, the small percentage (10%) they had retained for just this kind of situation was not enough to compensate for an entire order of unusable product.

In the second case, the company again prepared well, but full payment upfront meant there was no leverage for fixing problems down the track.

Both companies had the same basic problem–without some sort of physical presence in the factory neither of them had any leverage.  Once there were production problems (that cost time and/or money to resolve) the factory had no incentive to fix or replace anything.  And since neither of the companies had a presence in China they had no means of enforcing any of their demands (or even their originally contracted standards). I’d like to say that this is unusual and these two companies just had bad luck.  But the reality is that this is more common that not.

Having a presence in China makes a big difference when it comes to leverage in negotiations. If your supplier knows you can just get in a car or on a train and visit in a few hours’ time, he has greater incentive to keep you happy, and to resolve any problems that arise. If he knows you will visit to inspect product in the factory during production, he has a greater incentive to watch over production quality. If you are not in China yourself, having a trusted employee or agent on the ground can help.

Tying payments to QC inspection reports helps a ton.  As does being in the factory for critical production points (or having someone represent you there).  Remember, if you’re not doing your own QC or at least tying payments to QC reports, you’ve got no reason to expect that you’ll get what you’ve contracted for–you have no way to enforce your standards and the factory has no incentive not to save as much money as possible.

The important thing is to give the factory an incentive to meet your requirements (be it in terms of quality, punctuality, or cost). We regularly work with small factories. This makes us a higher priority customer (our orders form a larger part of the factory’s bottom line) but quality control can be a big issue in the beginning. We use a range of methods to improve quality. Continuing to work with the same factory over time, however, has many long term benefits, not the least of which being the build up of guanxi.

Our strategies included:

  • sending out own staff to train the factory’s quality inspectors
  • a contract stipulating we only pay for items that have passed our own independent QC (items than failed inspection were returned; we would pay for any that were suitably rectified and sent back to us)
  • a bonus for orders with a defect rate under 10%
  • when quality standards rose across the board, we focussed on improving adherence to schedule

One last point from David’s article:

It’s the same thing if you’re sourcing product or asking for samples.  If there is no incentive other than your word that “I’m going to place a really big order–there is so much potential here for us to make a ton of money!” then there is probably no chance that you’ll be anyone’s priority project… Remember, foreign clients are now a serious RISK.  The tables have turned in the last three years and you are now seen as a liability not an opportunity until you prove otherwise.  Without significant leverage, budget-conscious risk-adverse Chinese factories will just not take the gamble.

It’s a big risk to assume that as a foreign buyer you are automatically an attractive customer that any supplier would love to have. Even if you have been buying from China a long time, a new factory has no guarantee that you will buy big from them. There’s no shortcut – be a good customer, and over time you will prove yourself worthy of a supplier’s best efforts.

European Imports – changes to the ENS come into effect soon!

A quick note to point you to Renaud’s post today on the Entry Summary Declaration (ENS) and changes for shipping to Europe. The change was announced some time ago, but comes into effect right around now, so it’s a good time to look it over and be sure your shipper is in compliance.

There’s good information about the ENS on the websites of WCS Cargo and Hapag-Lloyd, as well.

Best blogs about sourcing in China


Tanya Crossman

Tanya Crossman

A few weeks ago Imports Oriental was named as one of the best blogs for sourcing in China on Quality Inspection Tips blog (original post here). Here’s a quote from the article:

Imports Oriental Blog – I like Danny’s angle on some unique “Chinese cultural things”, and Tanya does a great job of spotting the best content from other blogs.

Other blogs Renaud listed include Silk Road International and China Law Blog – two excellent blogs that we also read regularly, and have linked to numerous times in the past. It’s humbling to be listed in such illustrious company!

We thought we’d let you in on some other sources we look to:

Foreign Entrepreneurs in China has a somewhat specific focus, but one that resonates deeply with us, obviously! Lots of helpful hints for those starting out or growing a business in China.

Chinese Negotiation is a top notch blog with great insights into how Chinese culture affects the way business works here. We regularly read posts by Andrew that connect very well with our own experiences and/or give us new ideas.

All Roads Lead To China contains a good blend of business and personal insights for the expat businessperson in China.

And, of course,

Silk Road International
China Law Blog
and
Quality Inspection Tips

So that’s 6 of our favorites. How about you? What sources do you go to for information on business in China?

What to do when your supplier sees no reason to continue

Tanya Crossman

Tanya Crossman

David Dayton wrote a good “story” post this week. He tells the story of a situation his company was in where their supplier did not want to continue working on an order, and the strategies they employed to motivate production.

No matter what the reason, when your factory has officially passed the we’re-losing-money-on-this-project point, expect to see product laying around, no more QC, no managers, and expect no one to answer your calls.

Here are David’s four main action points – how they moved things forward:

1. We continually reassured them that even though things were late we were indeed still interested in the remaining qtty’s.
2. We then reassured them that we were going to not only pay for what we ordered, but we would pay on time and pay for any additional costs that were due to changes or our mistakes
3. I went into the factory and met with the owner.
4. To get what we wanted (product done correctly, at the same price, ASAP) we basically gave in on everything that we could that didn’t affect product quality or cost us cash out of pocket.

In our situation we had two positions of strength–the outstanding balance of payments and our physical presence in the factory.

David also makes a good point about dealing with factory managers, and how they can be part of the problem:

Managers, the very people that you’re depending on to help you push through difficulties, may be the problem.  Just like back home, different departments in large organizations work on budgets and they allot time to specific projects.  They when they overspend in either time or money, they get in trouble.  Precisely because they are tied to these specific limits they can’t always see the big picture.  Sometime a single project that busts their budget is the worst thing they can imagine and so they freeze up or stop the hemorrhaging in their department.  When this happens, you need to get up a level, get above the managerial trees and recruit a GM or owner to direct these lower lever guys to do what’s best for the factory (as opposed to what’s best for their personal fiefdom).

This is one of the reasons we prefer to deal with smaller factories. That way we deal with the boss, the one who stands to lose and gain the most by getting the order done right. The boss of a small factory has the power to rearrange everything if he decides it is necessary.

Read the full story here.

Does Negotiating Low Prices lead to Lower Product Quality?

Danny Coyle

Danny Coyle

Renaud at Quality Inspection Blog ran a post last month discussing how price negotiations can sometimes have a negative impact on production quality. The basic idea is this: if you negotiate a very low price, a supplier may get the margin he needs by skimping on the quality of the end product.

“A Chinese factory has intense pressure to grow up fast. Every day they hear stories of other manufacturers that achieved impressive growth with aggressive tactics. The temptation to do the same is very strong…  importers should not count on a supplier’s ethical standards.” (read the article here)

Recently we ran into a similar situation when we negotiated the price for a new product with a supplier we’ve been using for 5 years.  He’s developed a lot of his processes and quality control measures because we have sent our own people to his factory to help him do it.

The new product is expected to sell hundreds of thousands of pieces.  So we asked him to give us his best price and continued to put pressure on him to give us a rock-bottom price.

He began to manufacture the product (after sampling) and gave us the first samples off the line.  We received them and they were sub-standard.  Basically, they were falling apart at the seams (literally).

I called him and asked what was going on.  He complained that we had driven the cost so low that this is what we get for that price.  I told him that after 5 years of training him on our quality standard he decided to abandon it.  He knows we don’t accept product like that.  He gave me the ultimatum (take it or cancel it) and I hung up on him.  A few hours later, our staff found a way to solve the problem, communicated it to him, and he’s back on board.

So it’s not always a price issue, sometimes it’s just a China issue!

Rising Labor Costs in China – How it Affects Manufacturing Exports


Tanya Crossman

Tanya Crossman

There’s been a lot of talk around the world about rising labor costs in China. There is no longer an unending stream of workers prepared to accept the low wages which sufficed in previous decades.

Factories are offering better salaries and improving working conditions in order to entice the workers they need to fulfill production, and still coming up short. These additional costs are being passed onto buyers abroad, and therefore a “Made in China” tag is more expensive than ever.

Here’s a few articles on the subject that we’ve found helpful:

How Rising Wages are Changing the Game in China (BusinessWeek)

Doesn’t China have an inexhaustible supply of cheap labor? Not any longer. From the textile and toy factories of the south to the corporate headquarters and research labs in Beijing and Shanghai, the No. 1 challenge today is finding and keeping good workers. Turnover in some low-tech industries approaches 50%, according to the Institute of Contemporary Observation, a Shenzhen labor research group. Guangdong Province says it has 2.5 million jobs that remain unfilled, while Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shandong provinces say they, too, face shortages of qualified workers. “Before, people talked about China’s unlimited labor supply,” says Zhang Juwei, deputy director of the Institute of Population & Labor Economics at the Chinese Academy of Social Sciences in Beijing. “We should revise that: China is facing a limited supply of labor.”

This is not all bad news. Yes, it means the costs for companies exporting are going up, that international buyers will have to pay more for goods made in China. It also means, however, a strengthening of the domestic market. There are opportunities for those importing to and selling in China.

We here at Imports Oriental are very pleased to see worker salaries going up. It may not be good for the bottom line of exporters like us, but it’s good for the workers we all rely on. Factory workers are not as expendable as they once were, which should raise their value and result in better conditions. We’re glad to see the people of China gaining a share of the wealth being created here.

Made in China Remade (Project Syndicate)

Rising labor costs are inevitable. China’s government introduced tough labor laws and a minimum wage in 2008. Recent policies to improve rural economic conditions have slowed the flow of migrants from the countryside. Workers are demanding higher compensation to match the fast-rising cost of living in China’s cities, as manifested in an ongoing and high-profile labor strike at a Honda plant based in Guangdong. Salary was the major point of contention.

One of the reasons for the labor shortage is that some people who once would have traveled to the city to seek work are staying closer to home in the interior provinces, as opportunities are growing there. We’re also glad to see this – it means fewer families split in half, with parents working in the city and children staying back with grandparents to attend school, seeing their parents only once or twice a year.

In a macro view, changes that improve the lives of workers here are good for the country as a whole and, we believe, for those of us who engage in business here.

China’s Rising Labour Costs (Euromonitor International)

The Chinese work force now varies between highly-skilled technical workers and low-level manual labourers, ensuring that all types of labour requirements can be met. This has allowed China to become a major manufacturing centre, with products ranging from textiles, to basic manufacturing and high-end electronic goods.

Manufacturing in China is maturing. While price is one of the major reasons companies choose China for their manufacturing needs, it is not the only reason. Countries such as Vietnam, India and Bangladesh, to name a few, also provide low-cost manufacturing, yet China remains the location of choice for many businesses. China has more to offer than cost.

Rising Labor Costs In China (Fibre2Fashion)

China possess high skill level, and quality fabrics. The country has good familiarity with the American retailers. Whilst these factors are beneficial to them, high import duties, and rising labor costs does not favor them from the views of apparel manufacturers. . .China might not lose its manufacturing base owing to its huge domestic market, but there may be a perceptible shift towards high-end goods.

Other countries may undercut on price when it comes to low quality garments, but China is still the place to source high quality items on a budget.

Understanding the Chinese Yuan Revaluation and its Impact on Import/Export Business

Tanya Crossman

Tanya Crossman

There has been a lot of discussion both online and offline regarding revaluation of the Chinese Yuan. Commentators have dissected the statements made and the implications to China, the US, and international business in general. There are scores of articles all over the web with a wide range of opinions on the topic.

We’ve listed here a few of the articles we’ve found most helpful for understanding what has actually happened and how it will affect Chinese exports.

Renaud’s post is a great place to start. It’s easy to follow without reading anything else about the situation and gives a simple breakdown of the likely effects for importers.

We liked this post on Chinese Negotiation, cutting through the mess of online opinions to give a little more clarity. Stan at China Hearsay wrote a lengthier and more personal take on the situation that is also worth a read.

China Real Time Report (of the Wall Street Journal) put together a series of articles looking at the revaluation through its potential impact on various industries. Their article regarding the impact on General Manufacturing was most applicable to us, but there are also articles that focus on PropertyBanksTechnologyEnergyConsumer Goods and AutosTransportation and Tourism and Commodities and Metals.

Finally, if you want to get right down to what was actually said, they also published a translation of the statement given by the People’s Bank of China on Sunday.

If you’ve come across other good articles on the Chinese Yuan revaluation, please share them with us in the comments section below.

A Beginners Guide to Manufacturing Knitwear in China – Peak Season: Part 1

Danny Coyle

Danny Coyle

Steven Weng

Steven Weng

Most knitwear is manufactured from April to August in time for the Fall/Winter seasons in the northern hemisphere. (Late production continues through to October). The push to get large volumes produced in this short period puts pressure on every aspect of production. It can be difficult to get knitwear orders completed in a timely fashion if orders are not placed before May of each year.

Many of these principles hold true for manufacturing other products as well.

I’ve listed some of the potential areas for delays here and in Part 2 of this article.

1. Sampling

Most sampling should be done in advance of the busy period, however, the Pre-Production (PP) samples must be done immediately before production. Usually the PP samples that are given to the customer are not done on the same looms (or even in the same factory) as the actual production. These sampling looms are often operated by technicians who are superior to those that operate the production looms.  This means that they can push the samples out faster, but the quality is not indicative of the quality on the actual production line.  Furthermore, these looms used for sampling are also making samples for other orders at the same time, so you may have to wait for those samples to be done first, before they make your samples. Normally the samples will take 7-10 days to do. Delays here can add 2-3 days to the sampling stage of the project.

2. Yarn Dyeing

When dyeing lab-dips and dyeing the production yarn, there will be delays. Most delays at this stage are due to queuing up behind all the orders that were placed before yours.  The dyeing factory may promise you a delivery date for your lab-dips, but this delivery date is never fixed. Most factories will tell you that dyeing will be complete 30-45 days after the color is approved.  Remember that a top dye yarn will always take longer. Upon receiving your lab-dips, the factory may give you a timetable for the yarn dyeing, but this is not a reliable timeline, especially during the busy season.

To be frank, the whole dyeing process during the busy season is a crap-shoot. You never know how many people are ahead of you in the queue, and you never know how good your guanxi is compared to the guys in front or behind you.  So delays are inevitable. In extreme circumstances the delays can push production back 2-4 weeks.

3. Knitting

Again, during the busy season, your knitting factory may have other orders in production at the same time as your order. Production on your order will not begin until the orders ahead of yours are complete. Delays at this stage can go from a few days to a few weeks. If you allow 45-60 days for this stage of production your order should stay on time. Our production period is normally 30-45 days after the PP sample is approved.

During the busy season production is going as fast as possible on every order the factory is working on.  They are trying to make as much money as possible by processing as many pieces as possible. Factories have no spare time on the looms, and workers are working 10-12 hour shifts at their looms. Once they start knitting your order, you must make sure that the factory is concentrating on your order.  Sometimes they will only use half the looms to process your order.  This will also cause delays because the factory originally calculated the delivery time based on full production capacity.  It is important that you physically travel to the factory to make sure they are working on your order.  If they are not, you will face delays.

In the next installment of this piece, we will look at other factors that can delay your knitwear order and some ways to keep your order on schedule. Click here for Part 2.