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Chinese Jewelry Vocab

Jill Coyle

Jill Coyle

When we first started our jewelry business in January of 2004, I spent a lot of time at the wholesale jewelry and pearl markets. I learned a lot of new vocabulary during that time (never knew what rhodium-plated meant before!). When I hired an assistant a few months later, one of the first things she did was create this jewelry-vocab-table for me. I carried it with me everywhere!


I found it helpful in asking for various gemstones, in the bargaining process, or in finding out if something was white gold or just white gold plated. It also helped with writing all the jewelry descriptions for our retail website—to know that those crystals were from Austria but not Swarovski or that that turquoise was just white stones dyed blue.

And now, even though Imports Oriental no longer retails jewelry (we do wholesale orders only), I still find this list helpful. I’ve shared it with friends, taken it on shopping trips with my sisters, and photo-copied it for aspiring jewelry-makers.

Jewelry Items

Silver and Green Topaz Earrings

Silver and Green Topaz Earrings

Jewelry –首饰(shou shi)
Bracelet – 手链(shou lian)
Chain – 链 (lian)
Charm or pendant – 坠(zhui)
Clasp – 扣/扣子(kou/kouzi)
Dangle earrings – 耳坠(er zhui)
Earrings – 耳环(er huan)
Necklace – 项链(xiang lian)
Ring – 戒指 (jie zhi)
Stud earrings – 耳钉(er ding)

Pearls

Freshwater and Coin Pearl Strand (Pink)

Freshwater and Coin Pearl Strand (Pink)

Pearls – 珍珠(zhen zhu)
Blister clasp – 妈贝(ma bei)
Button (coin) pearls – 纽扣珠(niu kou zhu)
Freshwater pearls – 淡水珠(dan shui zhu)
Seapearls – 海珠/海水珠(hai zhu / hai shui zhu)
Rice pearls – 米珠(mi zhu)
Mother of pearl – 贝珠(bei zhu)


Gemstones

Agate – 玛瑙(ma nao)
Amber – 琥珀(hu bo)
Amethyst – 紫晶(zi jing)
Blue lace agate – 紫玛瑙(zi ma nao)
Blue topaz – 兰黄玉(lan huang yu)
Citrine – 黄晶(huang jing)
Coral – 珊瑚(shan hu)
Cubic zirconia – 告石(gao shi)
Crystal – 水晶 (shui jing)
Diamond – 钻石 (zuan shi)
Emerald – 祖母绿(zu mu lu)

Turquoise Necklace with Silver Beads

Turquoise Necklace with Silver Beads

Fluorite – 紫萤石(zi ying shi)
Garnet – 石榴石(shi liu shi)
Jade – 玉(yu)
Lapis – 青金 (qing jin)
Opal – 蛋白石(dan bai shi)
Peridot – 橄榄石(gan lan shi)
Rough amethyst – 紫晶原石(zi jing yuan shi)
Rose quartz – 芙蓉石(fu rong shi)
Ruby – 红宝石(hong bao shi)
Sapphire – 兰宝石(lan bao shi)
Shell – 贝壳(bei ke)
Tigers eye – 木变石(mu bian shi)
Topaz – 黄玉(huang yu)
Tourmaline – 碧喜(bi xi)
Turquoise – 松石(song shi)

Pearls - Various Strands

Pearls - Various Strands

General Jewelry Terms

Color – 颜色(yan se)
Fake – 假的 (jia de)Ribbon – 丝带(si dai)
Genuine – 真的 (zhen de)
Plated – 镀(du)
Rhodium plated – 镀铑(du lao)
Ribbon – 丝带(si dai)
Strands – 条(tiao)
Tarnish – 氧化(yang hua)
Thick – 粗(cu)
Thin – 细(xi)
White gold plated – 镀白金(du bai jin)


Picking Out Your First String Of Pearls (Part 2)

Jill Coyle

Jill Coyle

In part 1, I talked about picking out a great string of pearls. Here are some additional terms or definitions that you might run across while shopping for those pearls.

Various Pearl Strands

Various Pearl Strands

Nacre – what is it?

Nacre is a technical term you’ll sometimes hear people talking about in relation to pearls. Nacre is the natural substance secreted by mollusks that essentially creates the pearl. The thicker the nacre, the higher the quality. Nacre is also found on the inside of the oyster shells—we call this mother-of-pearl. Nacre gives pearls their shine and luster.

Cultured Pearls

These days, almost all pearls—whether freshwater or seapearls—are cultured or grown on pearl farms. Very few occur naturally.
How are Cultured Pearls “made”?

Small shell beads are surgically implanted into live oysters, which are then returned to the sea (or fresh waters, for freshwater pearls). After much time and effort (the oysters need to be monitored, moved to warm waters, etc), a pearl is born as the oyster continues to secrete nacre around the bead.

Freshwater Pearls (Triple Strand)

Freshwater Pearls (Triple Strand)

Freshwater Pearls

Most freshwater pearls are cultured pearls (i.e. they are “grown” on pearl farms), grown in fresh waters. Many freshwater pearls are grown in China—and come in many shapes and sizes. Because they’re relatively inexpensive, freshwater pearls can be used in many different ways—dyed to match clothing, mixed with semi-precious stones, and used to make fashion jewelry. In spite of their affordability, freshwater pearls are still very beautiful and luminous.

All the freshwater pearls used in Imports Oriental jewelry are cultured pearls from China, grown in various freshwater lakes around the country. Freshwater pearls come in many shapes and sizes, from round or rice to baroque or ringed.

Freshwater pearls come in many grades and sizes. For fun, freshwater pearls are dyed different colors, then mixed with semi-precious stones like amethyst, garnet, agate and turquoise. Most of our “fashion jewelry” collection deals with dyed freshwater pearls.

Akoya Seapearls

Akoya Seapearls

Akoya, Tahitian & South Sea Pearls

These three names specify the three main types of seapearls, Akoya being the most typical. Akoya seapearls are smaller than Tahitian and South Sea Pearls—usually making them less expensive. China grows Akoya seapearls on their pearls farms.

Chinese sea pearls seldom grow larger than 7.5-8 mm pearls. For this reason we use round freshwater pearls when the jewelry calls for a larger pearl, such as in our rings (9-9.5mm pearls).

Coin Pearls (Five Strand Necklace)

Coin Pearls (Five Strand Necklace)

Coin Pearls

Sometimes called button pearls, coin pearls are flat circular pearls that are formed in oysters. They are real pearls. They actually take longer to form than regular freshwater pearls, so they are slightly more expensive than round freshwater pearls.

Biwa Pearls (Necklace/Bracelet Set)

Biwa Pearls (Necklace/Bracelet Set)

Biwa Chips

Sometimes called stick pearls, Biwa Chips are also real freshwater pearls that formed into “stick” shapes. Very popular with different fashion jewelry designers.


Rice Pearls

Rice Pearls are freshwater pearls that are oblong in shape (similar to a grain of rice). All rice pearls are real pearls.

Mother of Pearl Shells

Mother of Pearl Shells are created from real shells that have been dipped into melted Mother of Pearl liquid for a shiny, even luster. They are not real pearls. However, they look great and are a lot of fun (and inexpensive) to put together with ribbons or for casual necklaces.

Triple Strand with Blister Clap

Triple Strand with Blister Clap

Blister Clasp

Blister clasps are set in sterling silver. The “blister” is actually a bubble in the Mother of Pearl layer inside an oyster, which is then cut out and set in silver.

Picking out your first string of pearls (Part 1)

Jill Coyle

Jill Coyle

Pearls are classic—they add elegance to a casual outfit but also go well with eveningwear. Below are some practical tips to help you in your search for that timeless strand of pearls. Part 2 will cover some helpful pearl definitions that might come up.

Pearls are no longer confined to that simple strand of white seapearls anymore (though that is what we’ll be talking about today). I have dozens of different freshwater pearl-mixes in my collection—a long strand of white pearls, tiny purple pearls mixed with amethysts, chunky brown pearls wrapped with tiger’s eye.

Jewelry was Imports Oriental’s first product line and although we no longer retail jewelry (wholesale orders only), I still love designing jewelry, finding new pearl-stone combinations, and finding great bargains to offer.

Today though, we’re talking about picking out that classic set of seapearls (the same guidelines are followed when picking out a classic strand of freshwater pearls, too).

Here are 4 things that you want to look for:

1. Surface – Is the surface clean and smooth?

The cleaner the surface of your pearls the better. Run your (clean) fingertips over every pearl to feel for grainy particles or imperfections.

Black Pearl (Necklace/Earring Set)

Black Pearl (Necklace/Earring Set)

2. Luster – Can you see your reflection in the pearls?

One trick I learned in shopping for pearls was: how clear do I see my reflection in these pearls? If I can see myself down to the mole on my cheek—well, that’s a pretty clear indication that these are good pearls. If the reflection is poor or murky, the pearls aren’t very good ones.

3. Size – Like diamonds, yes, size matters.

Pearls are measured in millimeters. For freshwater pearls, pearls within the same strand vary by one full millimeter (so sizes are typically stated as 7-8mm or 8-9mm, etc). Seapearls are only allowed a variation of half a millimeter, so seapearl sizes are stated as 7.5-8mm, 8-8.5mm, etc.

To state the obvious, bigger pearls (so long as the surface, luster and roundness are also good) are of greater value.

Triple Strand (with Blister Clasp)

Triple Strand (with Blister Clasp)

4. Roundness – Like babies, the rounder the better.

The rounder the pearl the more perfect it is. One way to check the roundness of your pearls: take the strand and roll them on a hard surface like a table. Do this gently (you don’t want to scratch them!), resting your fingers on top of the pearls. You should be able to feel the pearls roll easily.

However, pearl buyers like yourself will often sacrifice roundness for higher luster or greater size, as it is an easier way to increase the perceived value of the pearls. Other people will not usually notice if your pearls are perfectly round or not.

Practical Care for Pearls and Silver

Jill Coyle

Jill Coyle

General Jewelry Care

Put your jewelry on after you’ve sprayed your hairspray and perfume. Both sprays can damage your jewelry (especially pearls or other soft gemstones). It can also leave a greasy or crusty film on your jewelry.

Store each piece separately (small Ziploc bags work great!). Don’t let stones or pearls rub against each other or against metal objects (for instance, don’t let your topaz stones rub against your gold rings)—this can scratch or damage the stones.

Triple Strand Pearls with Chinese Clasp

Triple Strand Pearls with Chinese Clasp

Pearl Jewelry

Pearls, because of their organic makeup, are extremely sensitive. Pearls are best stored in a velvet cloth bag (but a Ziploc bag works well, too!), away from heat, damp or light. They should never rub against gold or silver items.

Pearls are especially sensitive to perfume and hairspray. Both will actually cause the luminescence of your pearls to be permanently damaged (decreasing their value).

Pearls can also be damaged by lotions and natural body oils. Clean your hands before handling your pearls!

Silver Chain with Floating Black Pearls

Silver Chain with Floating Black Pearls

Silver Jewelry

One of the simplest things you can do to care for your silver jewelry is to wear it. Using it keeps it from tarnishing.

For storage, keep silver jewelry in an airtight and dry place. Don’t keep it in the bathroom, as the humidity (from the shower) will cause the silver to tarnish. A great way to store silver jewelry is to put each item in a small Ziploc bag. It makes it easy to store, easy to find, and keeps it from tarnishing.

Silver/Onyx Earrings

Silver/Onyx Earrings

Make your jewelry shine!

Tarnished jewelry can be cleaned with store-bought cleaners. Be careful if you’re cleaning a gold or silver item set with gemstones—many gemstones (and pearls in particular) cannot be dipped into these chemicals.

Diamonds (and most gemstones) can be easily cleaned with a toothbrush and toothpaste.

Silver Earrings

Silver Earrings