International apparel manufacturing and sourcing. If we don't make it, we can find it.

Posts Tagged ‘Knitwear’

Knitwear: It’s all about Details and Service

Danny Coyle

Danny Coyle

Our business focuses on Textiles and Garments.  We started in jewelry, but now we only specialize garments and textiles. For about 5 years we focused on woven garments, but in the last year we’ve shifted to knitwear items.  The difference between our two lines of business is much greater than I expected.

Our woven apparel business is product-based.  We have a few core products with item codes; a customer can tell us the code # they want, and buy that product with minimal customized adaptations.

Knit apparel is a totally different story. It’s all about service and details. The customer’s need to get a long list of details exactly correct makes it hard for overseas buyers to source knitwear from China without going to a large, established, expensive factory with large minimum requirements..

A long list of details

A typical knitwear order with 5-10 styles could have as many as 1,000 individual details to receive from the buyer and then execute and monitor.  These details include:

  • garment measurements (20-30 per style)
  • garment style and construction details (yarn tension, knitting style, design elements)
  • manufacturing details (requirements for washing, drying, and ironing)
  • yarn details (color, composition, handfeel)
  • accessories

Then there are all the other details involved in international trade deals, such as:

  • Documents required by the customer
  • Labeling
  • Packaging
  • Payment terms
  • Shipping

Every one of these details has the potential to destroy an entire project.  While this may also be the case in many other industries, knitwear manufacturing includes a variety of subjective criteria that that cannot be quantified – suitability is up to the opinion of the buyer.  Handfeel variations, color variations, and even measurement tolerances can be acceptable to one buyer, and unacceptable to another.

Managing the varied and subtle details is a very complex undertaking. It is impossible to cover all your bases from a distance. This is where we come in, with a blend of foreign expertise and hometown advantage.

Where service comes in

Our job is to fully understand all aspects of the project, effectively communicate all requirements to the relevant parties, then monitor each stage of the process to return finished products in line with customer expectations. In short, we oversee and manage the entire project, from start to finish.

We take the detailed instructions we receive from our customers and explain them to all the suppliers involved – dyeing factories, knitting factories, after care providers, etc. We frequently work with smaller factories as they give the time and attention to detail that is required for smaller orders, without the higher costs associated with large factories.

The communication hub we provide creates benefit on all sides. Our foreign staff walk customers through the details of each style with greater effectiveness than a small factory owner could. Our local staff communicate with small factories more clearly than a foreign buyer could.

By using our services, our customers leverage the benefits of boutique factories while keeping their costs down.

A Beginners Guide to Manufacturing Knitwear in China – Peak Season: Part 2

Danny Coyle

Danny Coyle

Steven Weng

Steven Weng

In part 1 we looked at the three main areas of knitwear production (sampling, yarn dyeing, and knitting) and the delays often encountered during peak season. Now let’s take a look at some other ways that knitwear orders are commonly delayed, and some ways to keep your order on track.

(For points 1-3, please see part 1)

4.  After Service

After care includes a range of services such as washing, ironing, inspection, labeling, and packaging. Each of these after care processes is important for adjusting the hand-feel, size measurements, and minimizing defects. For small factories, these steps will be done at a different location to the knitting process.

Many of these after-service factories are linked with the output of the knitting factories. They can usually scale their production up and down quite easily since the processes are less technical and less time-consuming. This means you are less likely to get stuck in a queue behind other orders being processed.

The main reason delays occur at this point in the process is when accessory suppliers nominated by the customer are slow to deliver. After-service accessories for knitwear products include care labels, hang tags, polybags, and outer cartons. If the accessory supplier does not deliver the pieces in a timely fashion, the entire order will be delayed. For this reason it is extremely important to think ahead when planning your order.

These minor pieces can easily be left to the last minute since they are such a small part of the order.  However, entire shipments can be rejected because of minor problems with these accessories.

5. Small Quantities

The dyeing factories are so busy during the peak season that they are often unwilling to waste time on small jobs. For dyeing yarn, you may need to accept a color from the factory’s range of stock yarn colors, or face being shunted to the back of the queue.   For knitting, it may be best to wait until the busy season has finished.  The factory will be more likely to process your order quickly, and he will be happy to get an order when there aren’t many orders in the market at that time.

6. Customer Approval

If a customer falls behind schedule on his approvals, so will production.  This is common sense, but something to plan for when schedules are put together. Make sure to allow enough time for samples to be sent wherever they need to go and add a few days extra since the customer may want to send you something back that is closer to the handfeel, color, or style that they are looking for.   It is rare that the samples will be totally confirmed on the first try.

7. Chinese Holidays

The busy season for knitwear is not during the major Chinese New Year holiday, so you won’t have to compete with other orders and a difficult holiday schedule at the same time. If you are doing production during the slow season, however, this is a consideration to keep in mind.

The Solution

1.  Get in early

The most important thing is to place your order well in advance. This will put you toward the front of each queue and lower the risk of significant delays. The downside, of course, is that it requires you to be well prepared well in advance.

Negotiate the details of the order long before production needs to begin. Three things should be sorted out right at the beginning: approval of the prototype samples, price negotiations, and quality specifications. (The lab-dips, PP samples and accessories can be approved later, when production is ready to commence.) When these three things are settled you need to confirm the order. A deposit payment will usually be required at this early stage to guarantee your place at the front of the queue.

Manage the process

When it comes to scheduling during the busy season, pay close attention to each phase of production (see part 1 for more details on these processes).  After-service still requires attention to the scheduling, but not nearly as much as knitting and yarn dyeing.

Plan for delays

Some of these delays are inevitable and unforeseeable.  The best way to solve them is to plan them into your production schedule from the very beginning or hire someone who is familiar with the problems you are facing. Understanding that you will face delays – where in the process they will come and how long they will be – will help you to create a production schedule that can stay on time.

Planning ahead gives you the luxury of time. If you expect and plan for delays they won’t be so stressful when they (inevitably) happen.

Imports Oriental has great contacts, good guanxi, and a wealth of experience in dealing with these delays.  If you need assistance navigating your orders through these murky waters, please feel free to contact us.

A Beginners Guide to Manufacturing Knitwear in China – Peak Season: Part 1

Danny Coyle

Danny Coyle

Steven Weng

Steven Weng

Most knitwear is manufactured from April to August in time for the Fall/Winter seasons in the northern hemisphere. (Late production continues through to October). The push to get large volumes produced in this short period puts pressure on every aspect of production. It can be difficult to get knitwear orders completed in a timely fashion if orders are not placed before May of each year.

Many of these principles hold true for manufacturing other products as well.

I’ve listed some of the potential areas for delays here and in Part 2 of this article.

1. Sampling

Most sampling should be done in advance of the busy period, however, the Pre-Production (PP) samples must be done immediately before production. Usually the PP samples that are given to the customer are not done on the same looms (or even in the same factory) as the actual production. These sampling looms are often operated by technicians who are superior to those that operate the production looms.  This means that they can push the samples out faster, but the quality is not indicative of the quality on the actual production line.  Furthermore, these looms used for sampling are also making samples for other orders at the same time, so you may have to wait for those samples to be done first, before they make your samples. Normally the samples will take 7-10 days to do. Delays here can add 2-3 days to the sampling stage of the project.

2. Yarn Dyeing

When dyeing lab-dips and dyeing the production yarn, there will be delays. Most delays at this stage are due to queuing up behind all the orders that were placed before yours.  The dyeing factory may promise you a delivery date for your lab-dips, but this delivery date is never fixed. Most factories will tell you that dyeing will be complete 30-45 days after the color is approved.  Remember that a top dye yarn will always take longer. Upon receiving your lab-dips, the factory may give you a timetable for the yarn dyeing, but this is not a reliable timeline, especially during the busy season.

To be frank, the whole dyeing process during the busy season is a crap-shoot. You never know how many people are ahead of you in the queue, and you never know how good your guanxi is compared to the guys in front or behind you.  So delays are inevitable. In extreme circumstances the delays can push production back 2-4 weeks.

3. Knitting

Again, during the busy season, your knitting factory may have other orders in production at the same time as your order. Production on your order will not begin until the orders ahead of yours are complete. Delays at this stage can go from a few days to a few weeks. If you allow 45-60 days for this stage of production your order should stay on time. Our production period is normally 30-45 days after the PP sample is approved.

During the busy season production is going as fast as possible on every order the factory is working on.  They are trying to make as much money as possible by processing as many pieces as possible. Factories have no spare time on the looms, and workers are working 10-12 hour shifts at their looms. Once they start knitting your order, you must make sure that the factory is concentrating on your order.  Sometimes they will only use half the looms to process your order.  This will also cause delays because the factory originally calculated the delivery time based on full production capacity.  It is important that you physically travel to the factory to make sure they are working on your order.  If they are not, you will face delays.

In the next installment of this piece, we will look at other factors that can delay your knitwear order and some ways to keep your order on schedule. Click here for Part 2.