International apparel manufacturing and sourcing. If we don't make it, we can find it.

Posts Tagged ‘quality control’

Working well with Chinese suppliers

Tanya Crossman

Tanya Crossman

Last week Renaud wrote a piece about working with Chinese suppliers I enjoyed.

He starts out by saying that when you first start working with Chinese suppliers, you may notice a need to change certain habits.

It is very important to define the product requirements in the smallest details, including the labeling and the packaging.

I’m with him here! It’s important not to make assumptions. Don’t rely upon the supplier’s “common sense”. The problem with this isn’t that your supplier is “stupid” but rather that he doesn’t know what you’re thinking. You have a clear idea in your head of what a label should look like, whether you realize it or not. It may be that you think it “obvious” what a label should look like. If you do not communicate these specifics clearly, don’t complain when the supplier goes with his own assumptions of what makes for a good label!

Labeling and packaging are aspects of production we have changed our system on over time. Originally, all product was shipped to our warehouse where we did our own quality control and per-piece inspection, before labelling and packaging every piece by hand, ensuring no mistakes. At the time, this was something our supplier could not handle to a standard which was acceptable to us. Over time, as we have trained our supplier and improved other aspects of production, we have moved more of the labeling and packaging tasks to the production factory. When punctuality, quality, quantity, and color tolerances were all happening well, we added these extra jobs.

Quality and timing are never guaranteed. Expect a very bad experience, and you might be pleasantly surprised.

If by “expect a bad situation” he means “plan for the worst” then I am in total agreement! Things go wrong. It happens. It happens when you’ve made the same product at the same factory with no problems before. It happens when you have time to recover and when you don’t. Having a contingency plan ahead of time saves time and stress when those unforeseen problems crop up. Some questions to think about:

  • What will I do if the product is not ready on time?
  • When do I need it, as opposed to when I want it?
  • How will I respond if product quality is unacceptable?
  • How do I prioritize different production values (punctuality, cost, quality…)?
  • What scenario would force me to cancel the order?

Monitor production closely and micro-manage the whole process.

Yes, yes, yes! Keep in regular contact with your supplier – make sure you know the specifics of what’s happening with production. This kind of micro-managing helps not because your supplier is not going to look out for you (although that can be the case on occasion) but rather that your supplier may well have a different set of values to you. He may value punctuality over quality, or price over time – whereas your values may be opposite. This shows out when things go wrong (which they inevitably do, eventually, even to the most reliable of suppliers). When a choice has to be made -such as “I can either get them done on time OR at the price/quality promised” – the supplier will do what seems best to HIM, which may not be your own preference.

If you know what’s going on at every step of production, you have a chance to step in and make those calls yourself, rather than finding out weeks later what the supplier decided to do. We have several times averted what could have been problematic issues simply by asking specific questions and letting our preferences/values be known. When production was inevitably delayed, we knew early enough to accomodate the delay, rather than promising a delivery date to our own buyers we would later find out we could not keep.

Don’t take everything they tell you for granted. Once production is under way, in 50% of cases you are not told the truth.

I don’t entirely agree here. Although there certainly are unscrupulous suppliers out there who will lie and cheat and do whatever they can to make a fast buck, these “deceptions” aren’t always so malicious in intent. Sometimes it is simply a case of different priorities, leadership styles, or manners of dealing with conflict. While it is good to assume you don’t have the whole story, let it be a healthy awareness rather than an overly suspicious nature.

Don’t promise anything beyond the next order. It is useless. Your counter-party thinks short-term and in a distributive manner (“there is a pie to share, and I want the bigger half”).

Again, I’m not in total agreement here. I absolutely believe you should never promise a future order you can’t guarantee you’ll be placing with your current supplier, longterm relationships are very beneficial. Saying you are going to place an order later won’t gain you any extra leverage with your current problems, but a history of placing regular orders will. Chinese suppliers look more at your past history than at future possibilities. While this means you have no benefit when starting out, it does mean there is benefit in sticking with an imperfect but proficient supplier rather than constantly looking for a better supplier every time. Over time, a supplier will learn your values, know what details you get upset over, and future orders (and problems) will be worked through more smoothly. (This is especially true when you work with smaller factories).

I remember working with a buyer who had set up a very strong (nearly bullet-proof) system for avoiding getting burned. . .He had a theory that once a relationship has turned sour–for whatever reason–he’d better cut his costs and stop everything right away with the supplier in question. I saw first-hand how brutally he acted against a poor supplier who had committed an involuntary mistake. . .That supplier got about 100,000 USD worth of product cancelled, and the importer lost a relatively good supplier. The bottom line is to try to understand the real situation. It is not easy, but it is far better than assuming the worse and resorting to knee-jerk reactions.

Here’s the important part – if you persevere through small/unintentional mistakes, problems that come from ignorance or bad planning rather than from malicious intent, you can train your supplier over time, improving their quality while building a relationship. Giving up at the first small sign of trouble means you’ll never realize the benefits of a long-term supplier relationship.

Do you have any long-term relationships with suppliers you cherish?
How have your supplier relationships changed over time?

Leverage – having a China presence changes the game

Tanya Crossman

Tanya Crossman

Today we’re looking at a recent post on Silk Road International. David talks about leverage, and how even a careful buyer can get into trouble when they don’t have enough of it.

David uses two cases studies to illustrate this. In one case, good preparation did not make up for a lack of in-person inspection, and a whole shipment of bad product resulted.

They had done almost everything correct.  But they didn’t have on-sight QC and when their product showed up incorrect, the small percentage (10%) they had retained for just this kind of situation was not enough to compensate for an entire order of unusable product.

In the second case, the company again prepared well, but full payment upfront meant there was no leverage for fixing problems down the track.

Both companies had the same basic problem–without some sort of physical presence in the factory neither of them had any leverage.  Once there were production problems (that cost time and/or money to resolve) the factory had no incentive to fix or replace anything.  And since neither of the companies had a presence in China they had no means of enforcing any of their demands (or even their originally contracted standards). I’d like to say that this is unusual and these two companies just had bad luck.  But the reality is that this is more common that not.

Having a presence in China makes a big difference when it comes to leverage in negotiations. If your supplier knows you can just get in a car or on a train and visit in a few hours’ time, he has greater incentive to keep you happy, and to resolve any problems that arise. If he knows you will visit to inspect product in the factory during production, he has a greater incentive to watch over production quality. If you are not in China yourself, having a trusted employee or agent on the ground can help.

Tying payments to QC inspection reports helps a ton.  As does being in the factory for critical production points (or having someone represent you there).  Remember, if you’re not doing your own QC or at least tying payments to QC reports, you’ve got no reason to expect that you’ll get what you’ve contracted for–you have no way to enforce your standards and the factory has no incentive not to save as much money as possible.

The important thing is to give the factory an incentive to meet your requirements (be it in terms of quality, punctuality, or cost). We regularly work with small factories. This makes us a higher priority customer (our orders form a larger part of the factory’s bottom line) but quality control can be a big issue in the beginning. We use a range of methods to improve quality. Continuing to work with the same factory over time, however, has many long term benefits, not the least of which being the build up of guanxi.

Our strategies included:

  • sending out own staff to train the factory’s quality inspectors
  • a contract stipulating we only pay for items that have passed our own independent QC (items than failed inspection were returned; we would pay for any that were suitably rectified and sent back to us)
  • a bonus for orders with a defect rate under 10%
  • when quality standards rose across the board, we focussed on improving adherence to schedule

One last point from David’s article:

It’s the same thing if you’re sourcing product or asking for samples.  If there is no incentive other than your word that “I’m going to place a really big order–there is so much potential here for us to make a ton of money!” then there is probably no chance that you’ll be anyone’s priority project… Remember, foreign clients are now a serious RISK.  The tables have turned in the last three years and you are now seen as a liability not an opportunity until you prove otherwise.  Without significant leverage, budget-conscious risk-adverse Chinese factories will just not take the gamble.

It’s a big risk to assume that as a foreign buyer you are automatically an attractive customer that any supplier would love to have. Even if you have been buying from China a long time, a new factory has no guarantee that you will buy big from them. There’s no shortcut – be a good customer, and over time you will prove yourself worthy of a supplier’s best efforts.

Does Negotiating Low Prices lead to Lower Product Quality?

Danny Coyle

Danny Coyle

Renaud at Quality Inspection Blog ran a post last month discussing how price negotiations can sometimes have a negative impact on production quality. The basic idea is this: if you negotiate a very low price, a supplier may get the margin he needs by skimping on the quality of the end product.

“A Chinese factory has intense pressure to grow up fast. Every day they hear stories of other manufacturers that achieved impressive growth with aggressive tactics. The temptation to do the same is very strong…  importers should not count on a supplier’s ethical standards.” (read the article here)

Recently we ran into a similar situation when we negotiated the price for a new product with a supplier we’ve been using for 5 years.  He’s developed a lot of his processes and quality control measures because we have sent our own people to his factory to help him do it.

The new product is expected to sell hundreds of thousands of pieces.  So we asked him to give us his best price and continued to put pressure on him to give us a rock-bottom price.

He began to manufacture the product (after sampling) and gave us the first samples off the line.  We received them and they were sub-standard.  Basically, they were falling apart at the seams (literally).

I called him and asked what was going on.  He complained that we had driven the cost so low that this is what we get for that price.  I told him that after 5 years of training him on our quality standard he decided to abandon it.  He knows we don’t accept product like that.  He gave me the ultimatum (take it or cancel it) and I hung up on him.  A few hours later, our staff found a way to solve the problem, communicated it to him, and he’s back on board.

So it’s not always a price issue, sometimes it’s just a China issue!

1 Country, 2 Systems: Compensation for Errors in the Chinese Manufacturing Industry

Danny Coyle

Danny Coyle

Chinese manufacturers know that foreigners do business differently. Some suppliers will try to use the Chinese method, but switch to the foreign method when that gives them a better deal.  Don’t get suckered into a 1 country, 2 systems business relationship.

The Chinese Way vs. the Western Way

As foreigners, we are so quick to think the western way is better, without really understanding the Chinese way.  Understanding the Chinese way helps you manage expectations and smoothes dealings with suppliers.

Delays are part of the game of manufacturing in whatever industry you are in.  Problems happen.  How we (foreigners) deal with those problems is what makes us different.  Not better, just different.

When a mistake is made, westerners generally expect immediate payback. When a problem happens in a Chinese factory, the payback rarely happens immediately. Compensation is not directly related to the problem itself.  The payback usually happens in the long term. While you may expect a discount on the order your factory made a mistake on, that does not always fit the Chinese model and may not happen.

I learned this more than ever last week.  We’ve had a few minor hiccups with one of our factories.  These problems were more annoying inconveniences than setbacks and deal breakers. If I was dealing with a foreign company, I’d probably ask for a discount on the invoice value.  I understood, however, that asking for monetary discounts or compensation on this order was not going to get the point across.  I realized that my payback was going to come on the next order.

Asking for an immediate response in the form of a discount would probably just insult the factory manager, and do more long term harm than good. So I’ll be content for the time being knowing that my return is coming on future orders.

BUT.

A Chinese factory may want to cheat the savvy foreigner over by combining the western and Chinese methods.   What we are talking about here is relationship (guanxi), so on my next order, I should experience an increase in ‘guanxi’.  That means he pushes my order to the front of the queue, or puts a few more laborers on our products and gives my order a little bit more time and attention.

If you are still getting a lack of attention, a high price, or further delays from the factory on the second order, then something’s wrong with the relationship. He took all the benefits of the Chinese way on the first order, and all the benefits of the western way on the second order.

The Conclusion

When the minor annoyances happened, I explained to my staff that we will pick only one way to deal with this problem. We will either do the Chinese way, or the Western way, but not both.  If he wants to give us a discount, great!  And if he wants to give us better service on the second order, fantastic.  But we must have one of those options (and preferably both) on future orders.

For China-savvy manufacturers: don’t let the “1 country, 2 systems” strategy infect your manufacturing processes!

Have you ever encountered a supplier trying to get the best of both worlds, at your expense?
What strategies do you employ when a mistake is made on your order?

Disclaimer:
I read an article that had a few sentences discussing the Chinese way of ‘payback on later orders’ idea on another blog; I think it was on
Chinese Negotiation.  After my experience last week with our factory, I decided to write this article but can’t find the exact post I’d like to refer to.

Creating and Enforcing Quality Standards

Tanya Crossman

Tanya Crossman

A quality standard is essential, no matter what you are manufacturing, or where you are manufacturing. Creating a quality standard that accurately reflects your requirements for the finished product is a very important step. Creating that standard is not enough, however. It must be communicated and then, most importantly, enforced.

Renaud at Quality Inspection Blog posted an article last week that is a great rundown on creating and enforcing quality standard for manufacturing, specifically in China.

He gives four steps to help in the process:

1)  Insist on getting a “perfect” sample

2) Define tolerances wherever applicable

3. Set a limit on the proportion of defects

4. A quality standard suffers no exception

The first three steps all happen before production begins. This is important to note. Doing your homework and putting quality systems in place must happen BEFORE you pay a deposit and production begins. Once you have built rapport with a factory over time, this may be less important, but for a new factory or a new product it is essential.

The “golden sample” is much talked about. Manufacturers in China will often produce a very good initial sample in order to clinch an order, knowing that final production will be of a different quality. It is hard to hold the factory to the original sample when final production is half done. Factories know it costs time and money to go back and correct the standard.

In China, and in South-East Asia in General, factories know that sending very nice samples is what helps them get orders. These perfect samples (prepared by experimented technicians who take their time) are usually better that what can be made in mass production.

Renaud’s call to obtain a perfect sample works, however, because of his suggestion for what to do AFTER getting that perfect sample:

You should write a note about what has to be EXACTLY similar to the perfect sample (e.g. the overall outlook, the color, the function, etc.) and get your supplier to sign it.

This technique might not guarantee the factory sticks to the quality of the initial sample, but it is certainly better than nothing, and gives you leverage in any negotiations later on.
Renaud’s fourth and final point happens after production has begun, and quality inspections start. Having a quality standard meticulously outlined is of no use unless it is also enforced. Renaud starts with a hypothetical situation that is all too common in real life:
Let’s say a supplier is late, you negotiate a delay with your customers, and before shipment you notice that quality is less than desirable. You still prefer delivering the products, rather than cancelling the order. So you tell your supplier that he can ship out and that next time should be better. The problem is, the “exceptional tolerance” will become the de facto standard for the factory. Count on them to remember that you can accept less-than-perfect products.
The phrase “count on them to remember” really strikes me. By accepting products below your stated quality standard, you set a new standard. While sometimes the importance of shipping on time while outweigh the desire for top quality, make sure you take into consideration the possible implications on your long term relationship with the factory. Will accepting short term hassles save you problems in the future?
Chinese manufacturers tend to have a “can’t do” attitude after an order production has started. Two of their favorite expressions are “cha bu duo” (it’s off, but not by much, so you should accept it as is) and “mei ban fa” (there is nothing we can do about it now, no need to keep pressing this issue). You should fight their natural inclination. Ask for re-work and re-inspections, even if it costs you 10 days. This type of efforts pay off handsomely in the long term, as long as the factory can reasonable achieve your quality standard.

It’s important to note that final point: “as long as the factory can reasonably achieve your quality standard”. Creating and enforcing a quality standard only works as long as you check out the manufacturer before you begin, to make sure that they are capable of the standard to which you wish to hold them.

Read the full article here.

What tips do you have for creating quality standards?
How have you enforced your quality standard with manufacturers?

Textile Product Inspections and Testing

Tanya Crossman

Tanya Crossman

Renaud posted a good checklist of tests for textile products. When you are arranging QC for your products it’s important to know what exactly will be tested!

Of course, some products are more complex than others. For our simplest products, the following checklist is enough for our internal QC:

  • fabric has no defects
  • custom dye color matches previous orders/agreed upon swatches
  • measurements are within tolerances
  • seams are sewn straight

For more complicated items (such as intricate sweaters with accessories), the list is far longer!

The important thing is to have an exact list of what makes a product acceptable – any item falling outside the specific limits is therefore demonstratively defective.

What is on your QC list?
How do you get suppliers/customers to agree upon the standards to be enforced?

Chinese Manufacturing Stories

Tanya Crossman

Tanya Crossman

David Dayton at Silk Road International posted a great article this week regarding manufacturing and quality control in China. The post contains three true stories from manufacturing outsourced to China and how certain problems arose and were dealt with. Great insights into how to get what you need from the factories you work with.

I particularly love his “moral of the story” at the end of the article – it’s something we’ve found to be true in our own interactions with factories across China:

Work with your factories… Take time teach them, not in a condescending way, but with real detail and honest intent to make them better.  You’ll get better service, better product and better relationships…

Read the whole article here.

13 Lessons from a Factory Visit

Tanya Crossman

Tanya Crossman

There’s an interesting article on New Dynasty this week. David A. Dayton writes some of the game play that takes place when working with Chinese factories through a list of 13 takeaway lessons from a recent factory visit. If you’ve worked much with Chinese manufacturers you’ll probably recognize a lot of it, and David’s analysis is definitely worth a read.

Strategies and Experiences

Under Promise, Over Deliver

Tanya Crossman

Tanya Crossman

Great post on Silk Road International this week.  The story is specifically located in Vietnam, but the same concepts definitely apply in China.

Under Promise, Over Deliver